First the safety rules
The inside of a computer is a bad place full of electricity and sharp edges.
On the electricity side always when working on you computer make sure that it’s still plugged in to the power socket and the power is turned off, this is to ensure that any static
From you is discharged through the earth. The inside of most computer cases are unfinished metal and has very sharp edges so be careful.
The first signs of a battery failing are:-
1) your clock starts running slowly
2) when you boot (start) your computer it has a problem finding your hardware (no hard drive, no cd rom)
To change the battery you need the following tools
1) a X-point screwdriver
2) an anti-static strap(optional)
3) a new battery (seems logical)
Then unplug all the cables from the back of the computer as you remove them make a note where they came from. (So when you finished you can put them back)
Move the computer somewhere where you can work on it with ease
Remove the cover by locating the screws around the outer edge (back) of the computer
Some computer cases only require you to remove 2 screws on one side then a panel can be removed allowing you access to the computers insides, others you must remove 6 screws and remove the whole case by sliding it to the rear and lifting it off.
Now make sure that you read the safety instructions about static.
Look inside you will see a round silver thing that looks about the size of a 10p piece (quarter). This is the battery itself, carefully lift the retaining clip and slide the battery out. That’s it removed now go to your local computer retailer, electrical retailer (Tandy/Radio shack) taking the old battery with you and get a new battery.
Back to your computer insert the new battery by lifting the clip and sliding the battery in.
Reinstall your case and plug all the cables back (you did remember to label them didn’t you)
Now for the fun part.
You will now need to go into you bios….
Right the bios is the god of your computer.
To access it, when your computer first starts you will see a black screen with white text.
If you look carefully you will see a line that says something like "press del for setup" or some other key (F2 or ESC or tab) this will take you to god's house where you can make lots of changes to the way your machine works.
It is also the place where you can make your nice computer in to a rather expensive door stop so be careful and don’t go playing with anything.
You will now be presented with a blue screen with a lot of options on it,
The one we want is load optimised/default settings.
Press the F10 key and type y the computer should now reboot.
If every thing went well then your computer will now be up and running.
Shizers way: Keep computer running. Lay it on it's side and remove side cover to expose MoBo. Take any thin object, "small screwdriver, knife point, wood shiskabob skewer. Pull back the battery retaining clip. Toss the old battery in the junk recepticle, unless you belong to greenpeace and want to save the earth. Install the new battery. No need to reset bios becasue the compter supplies voltage to the cmos while it is running. Reset or resync clock with internet. Done!
Services Offered
CCTV
Mar 23, 2009
Dec 31, 2008
Disabled Task Manager and Regedit? Here's How
Regedit and Task Manager has been restricted due to virus and even though the virus has been deleted, the restrictions are still present and it's really annoying that you cannot access Task Manager (CRTL+ALT+Del) and Regedit.
First, You have to Scan your PC with your Anti virus and reboot, After reboot, You may now apply the following.
For Regedit.
Start > Run and type the following exactly between and without the
Quotes ("")
"REG DELETE
HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v
DisableRegistryTools"
and/or
"REG DELETE
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v
DisableRegistryTools"
----------------
For the Task Manager
For Windows XP Pro, use Group Policy Editor (Start > Run > gpedit.msc)
then navigate to:
User Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components >
System > Ctrl+Alt+Del Options. Set "Remove Task Manager" as Not
Configured.
------
For XP Home or Pro, use the Registry editor (Start > Run > regedit.exe)
Navigate to the following sub key:
[HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System]
and/or
[HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System]
Name: DisableTaskMgr
Type: DWORD
Value: 0 - Unrestricted; 1 - Restricted
Or in the right-hand pane, delete "DisableTaskMgr".
-------
An automated fix for XP Home or Pro,
Download and merge the following file from this site.
http://www.lprf.ca/files/tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg
Download "tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to your desktop. Right click
"tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to select Merge.
If you want to view the contents of the file, simply right-click
"tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to select Edit.
--
First, You have to Scan your PC with your Anti virus and reboot, After reboot, You may now apply the following.
For Regedit.
Start > Run and type the following exactly between and without the
Quotes ("")
"REG DELETE
HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v
DisableRegistryTools"
and/or
"REG DELETE
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v
DisableRegistryTools"
----------------
For the Task Manager
For Windows XP Pro, use Group Policy Editor (Start > Run > gpedit.msc)
then navigate to:
User Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components >
System > Ctrl+Alt+Del Options. Set "Remove Task Manager" as Not
Configured.
------
For XP Home or Pro, use the Registry editor (Start > Run > regedit.exe)
Navigate to the following sub key:
[HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System]
and/or
[HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System]
Name: DisableTaskMgr
Type: DWORD
Value: 0 - Unrestricted; 1 - Restricted
Or in the right-hand pane, delete "DisableTaskMgr".
-------
An automated fix for XP Home or Pro,
Download and merge the following file from this site.
http://www.lprf.ca/files/tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg
Download "tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to your desktop. Right click
"tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to select Merge.
If you want to view the contents of the file, simply right-click
"tsk.mngr.dsbld.reg" to select Edit.
--
Jul 1, 2008
System Restore
Time Travel with System Restore
I feel your pain... unless you are very careful, you can download a new program or software update, then find that it makes your system unstable. Wouldn't it be nice if you could go back to a point in time when your computer was working? With System Restore, you can.
Think of System Restore as the Undo command for Windows. While your computer is on, System Restore takes regular snapshots of your Windows configuration, settings, and program files. These snapshots (known as "restore points") are stored on your hard disk so you can revert back to that point in the event of a computer emergency. Restore points are automatically created when new software is installed, when Windows Update applies changes, on a daily basis, and when you request a manual restore point. If you can remember the most recent time when your computer was working correctly, System Restore will roll back all system changes to that point.
I feel your pain... unless you are very careful, you can download a new program or software update, then find that it makes your system unstable. Wouldn't it be nice if you could go back to a point in time when your computer was working? With System Restore, you can.
Think of System Restore as the Undo command for Windows. While your computer is on, System Restore takes regular snapshots of your Windows configuration, settings, and program files. These snapshots (known as "restore points") are stored on your hard disk so you can revert back to that point in the event of a computer emergency. Restore points are automatically created when new software is installed, when Windows Update applies changes, on a daily basis, and when you request a manual restore point. If you can remember the most recent time when your computer was working correctly, System Restore will roll back all system changes to that point.
Will I Lose Personal Files?
So what exactly does System Restore do? Let's start with what it doesn't do... System Restore WILL NOT remove or modify any personal data files such as word processor documents, spreadsheets, music & photos, web favorites, emails, etc. More specifically, files in the My Documents folder will never be touched. If you are unsure as to whether a file will be affected by System Restore, keep it in that folder. System Restore WILL affect your Windows system settings (the Windows Registry), protected system files, and recently installed software.
While System Restore can be a wonderful tool to get your computer back to a functioning state after a virus or spyware infestation, I strongly recommend that you use it only in such emergencies. If you have installed a program and suspect that it may be causing trouble, always try Add and Remove Programs in Control Panel first. I offer this caution because System Restore is a rather drastic measure. On the few occasions I've used it, System Restore did solve the problem at hand, but some minor things like fonts, wallpaper and desktop settings were altered. It also messed up my Internet Explorer toolbars, even though they were supposedly locked. Things like this (that I did notice) make me wonder if other unexpected or undesired changes were made as well.
Running System Restore 
If your computer seems to be unstable, you've done a thorough anti-virus and anti-spyware scan, and you've been unable to remove any suspected software packages thr
ough ControlPanel, give System Restore a try. To roll back your computer settings to a previously saved restore point:Click the Start button, then select Programs / Accessories / System Tools
Click System Restore.
Choose "Restore my computer to an earlier time" then click Next.
Select a day on the calendar, a restore point description, then click Next.
When System Restore begins, the computer will restart, the hands on your wall clock will spin backwards, and a groovy technicolor swirl will envelope the room. You may hear an audible moan and see smoke rising from your computer as the hard drive grinds. And with a bit of luck your system will be restored to normal functioning.
Hard Drive Failure?
Generally a clicking sound coming from your hard drive is a Bad Omen. It could be a harbinger of horrific hardware happenings, so my immediate advice is "BACKUP YOUR HARD DRIVE!" as soon as possible. If the drive fails, you're out of luck. In fact, even if you don't suspect a problem with your hard drive, it's wise to make regular backups so you can survive a hard drive failure with only minimal inconvenience. See my article Backing Up Your Files to learn about backup strategies, hardware and software.
Scan Your Drive
On Windows XP, you can check your hard drive for errors by running the CHKDSK utility. Restart your computer and hold down the Ctrl key while it's booting up. When you see the option to start your system in Safe Mode, select it and continue. Click the Start button, then click Run, then type CHKDSK C: /F /R then press Enter. The /R option tells CHKDSK to scan for bad disk sectors, and the /F option means to fix any errors found. (On a Windows 98 system, use the SCANDISK command instead of CHKDSK.)
If CHKDSK offers to "convert lost chains to files", recover lost data, or fix something else, you should accept. (If CHKDSK tries to sell you a cheap Rolex, politely decline the offer.) After CHKDSK finishes, restart your computer normally and see if the dreaded click of doom returns. If so, the drive is most likely damaged, and should be replaced as soon as possible. If you decide to purchase a new computer, see Copying Old Hard Drive to New PC for help with transferring your files.
Are You On The Level?
But before you trash your troublesome drive, you should try one more thing... Some hard drives are very sensitive to non-level surfaces, and will not function properly if they're sitting on a slant. Shut down your computer, make sure your system unit is on a flat surface (use a level to make sure), and then restart. I was all set to give up on an older computer that was doing the click/whir routine, but I noticed it wasn't sitting on a level surface. As soon as I fixed that, the problem was gone!
That clicking sound MAY signal impending hard drive failure, but keep in mind you don't always get such a warning. So play it safe... back up your files on a regular basis.
Need more inspiration to back up your hard drive? Listen to music based on the sounds of hard drive failure!Fiddling While Your Hard Drive Crashes will haunt your dreams until your data is safe.
Generally a clicking sound coming from your hard drive is a Bad Omen. It could be a harbinger of horrific hardware happenings, so my immediate advice is "BACKUP YOUR HARD DRIVE!" as soon as possible. If the drive fails, you're out of luck. In fact, even if you don't suspect a problem with your hard drive, it's wise to make regular backups so you can survive a hard drive failure with only minimal inconvenience. See my article Backing Up Your Files to learn about backup strategies, hardware and software.
Scan Your Drive
On Windows XP, you can check your hard drive for errors by running the CHKDSK utility. Restart your computer and hold down the Ctrl key while it's booting up. When you see the option to start your system in Safe Mode, select it and continue. Click the Start button, then click Run, then type CHKDSK C: /F /R then press Enter. The /R option tells CHKDSK to scan for bad disk sectors, and the /F option means to fix any errors found. (On a Windows 98 system, use the SCANDISK command instead of CHKDSK.)
If CHKDSK offers to "convert lost chains to files", recover lost data, or fix something else, you should accept. (If CHKDSK tries to sell you a cheap Rolex, politely decline the offer.) After CHKDSK finishes, restart your computer normally and see if the dreaded click of doom returns. If so, the drive is most likely damaged, and should be replaced as soon as possible. If you decide to purchase a new computer, see Copying Old Hard Drive to New PC for help with transferring your files.
Are You On The Level?
But before you trash your troublesome drive, you should try one more thing... Some hard drives are very sensitive to non-level surfaces, and will not function properly if they're sitting on a slant. Shut down your computer, make sure your system unit is on a flat surface (use a level to make sure), and then restart. I was all set to give up on an older computer that was doing the click/whir routine, but I noticed it wasn't sitting on a level surface. As soon as I fixed that, the problem was gone!
That clicking sound MAY signal impending hard drive failure, but keep in mind you don't always get such a warning. So play it safe... back up your files on a regular basis.
Need more inspiration to back up your hard drive? Listen to music based on the sounds of hard drive failure!Fiddling While Your Hard Drive Crashes will haunt your dreams until your data is safe.
Jun 11, 2008
Defragment Your Hard Drive For Improved Performance
In order to fix this, there are programs available called defragmenters. When you defragment your hard drive, the program will move those scattered chunks of data so that files are stored contiguously, and create larger areas of free space to store files in the future. After drefagging, your computer has less work to do in order to open files and load programs. This is why defragmenting your hard drive is important.
How To Defragment Your Hard Drive
Click on the Start button, which is over on the bottom left part of your screen. Select Programs. Then select Accessories. Select System Tools. In System Tools, you'll find something called Disk Defragmenter.
From this program, you can select the hard drive that you want to defrag. Typically that's the C: drive, but if you have multiple drives, you can do them all. Press the Analyze button after selecting the drive, and Defrag will tell you if the drive needs to be defragmented. Lots of colored bars scattered all over the graph usually means you need to defrag. When most of the colored bars are over on the left side of the graph, that's good. Click the Defragment button to begin the defrag process.
Mac users, keep reading -- there's some defrag love in the next section for you...
I recommend that you defragment your computer regularly. Once a month should be enough, though do it more if you're a very active user, or you regularly deal with large (multi-megabyte) files such as music, video or graphics. If you have Windows Vista, the Disk Defragmenter offers you the option to run the program on a regular schedule.
Other Defragmenting Software
There are other defrag software programs available besides the one built into Windows. Some of these programs do a more thorough job of defragmenting your drive, and offer advanced features you might like.
Diskeeper is a popular commercial defragmenter. The newest version scans and fixes your computer in real time. So when you delete a program or file, it readjusts your hard drive right then. This eliminates the need to actually go in and run the program, taking minutes or hours out of your day to run the program.
DiskMagik is another good choice. It runs its disk defragmenter throughout the day, plus it'll learn when your slow times are, so it can adjust. It'll use fewer resources throughout the times when you use the computer more.
And Mac OS X users, I haven't forgotten you... Apple recommends a program called Drive Genius which will defrag, repair, repartition and do other maintenance tasks on your Mac. Other Mac savvy folks recommend iDefrag.
These programs are optional, but if you're the type of person who wants to squeeze every bit of performance out of your system, an advanced defragger is highly recommended. These programs eliminate the need to actually remember to run your disk defragmenter, and they'll optimize your disk. A fast and clean hard drive will really make a difference and improve your computer's performance
Jun 6, 2008
Tips on Buying a Personal Computer
This is an article I've read from www.selfgrowth.com, an article written by Rick Sheridan. This is very helpful to people who are planning to buy a PC.
Author's Bio
Rick Sheridan is a PhD student who has developed a free online health course for senior citizens. This distance education course teaches seniors how to use the Internet for their health and medical research. See the course at: http://ComputerAccessible.com
Buying a computer is a major purchase and you should study the options carefully. The two main types of computer operating systems are the PC (Windows) and Macintosh. Since PC's dominate about 90% of the market, this report will focus on them, although many of the tips will also apply to the Macintosh computers.
Factors to Consider:
Buy from a Reputable Dealer- before you buy your next computer, check the warranty. One year is average, three is better. Will the technician come to you or do you have to bring the machine in? What is the average turn around time for their repairs? If you are expected to deal with telephone technical support, test the number to see if you get constant busy signals. Check out Consumer Reports and other publications dedicated to evaluating warranties and computer quality. I would generally recommend buying locally if the price is anywhere near what you can get via mail order. Also, an extended warranty is usually worth it.
How will you use the computer- Knowing how you'll use your computer will help you determine what type of minimum requirements the computer needs to have. For example, computers that run graphic design programs generally need more memory (RAM) than computers used for simple word processing operations. The size of the software you plan to run will dictate how much memory your computer should have. Be sure to check the inventory of what's on the computer, so you'll know what you're getting. Salesmen will often try to make you feel as if you need the maximum memory offered (at a higher price). Often you don's need all that power for common operations.
How Much Should You Spend- Depending on your needs, be prepared to spend between $500 for an entry-level computer to $3,000 for a high-end computer. Take into consideration whether the monitor is included or costs extra. Sometimes printers, scanners and software are included in the deal. Be sure to purchase a surge protector, a software backup system (CD burner or Zip drive), along with anti-virus and a troubleshooting program (such as Norton Utilities).
Computer Terminology Glossary
Here are some basic computer terms that will help you understand what the salesman is talking about:
CD-ROM Drive: Most new computers come with a CD-ROM drive as standard equipment. CD's store lots of data and are the normal way to install new programs.
CPU: The CPU, or central processing unit, is the brains of the computer and performs many of the operations. Most Windows-based programs use a Pentium processor.
Disk Drive: Virtually all computers come with a disk drive that can read and save information on portable diskettes, also called floppy disks. You can use floppy disks to save information or to load new software onto your computer.
Hard Drive: The hard drive also is called the hard disk. You'll probably never see it because it is nestled inside your computer. It's the computer's electronic filling cabinet, and it stores the computer's operating system, files, programs and documents.
Keyboard: Just like a typewriter keyboard, this device is the way of inputting data into the software that you will be operating.
Megahertz (MHz): This is the clock speed of the microprocessor. The higher the number, the quicker the information is processed. MHz relates to how many millions of instructions can be processed per second.
Memory: This is the circuitry or device that holds information in an electrical or magnetic form. There is read-only memory (ROM), which is information primarily stored on a disk, and random-access memory (RAM), which is chip-based storage inside the computer. Memory is typically measured in megabytes (MBs).
Modem: This mechanism connects a computer to a phone line so information can be sent from one computer to another or the user can access an on-line service or the Internet. In view of the popularity of the Internet, a modem is now considered basic equipment and comes on practically all new computers. Most modems come with fax capabilities, too. Faster Internet speeds are available with DSL or cable connections.
Monitor: An output device that allows you to see what you are doing. Older computers came with 14 or 15 inch monitors. Many new computers have 17 or 21 inch monitors, but they often cost extra.
Motherboard: The motherboard is the circuit board that everything in the computer plugs into. The CPU, RAM and cache all plug into the motherboard.
Mouse: The mouse is another input device that makes getting around in your computer easier. It is a handheld object that is good for doing tasks such as moving and pointing to objects on the screen, and can replace the function and control keys of the keyboard.
Printer: A printer is an essential part of the computer if you want a hard copy of your work. There are three main types of printers on the market: inkjet, bubble jet and laser. Most inkjets and bubble jets can print color and graphics, and a laser printer offers the best resolution at the highest speed (and price).
RAM: Computers save data in two ways: on the hard drive (permanently) and in random access memory (temporarily while the software is running). New computer buyers should look for models with at least 128 MBs of RAM (or more, depending on what types of programs you'll be running). Make sure that the computer can be upgraded.
Scanner: This device can input written documents, pictures or photographs directly into your computer. There are three types of scanners: handheld, hopper-feed and flatbed.
Sound Card: This device allows your computer to reproduce music, sounds and recorded voices. Make sure you have a sound card if you're planning to play multimedia games.
Video Card: The video card is the part of the computer that sends the images to the monitor.
Computer Buyer's Checklist-
Before you walk into a computer store or call a mail order source, go over the list of the items (hardware and software) that you might consider purchasing. Ask the salesperson questions about the computer you are interested in and jot down your notes.
Processor type
_____________________________________________
Processor Speed in MHz
_____________________________________________
RAM (memory)
_____________________________________________
Cache
_____________________________________________
Hard Drive Capacity
_____________________________________________
Sound & Video Card
_____________________________________________
Monitor Size? Is it included in the price?
_____________________________________________
Printer: Is it included in the price?
_____________________________________________
Type of Printer (inkjet, bubble jet, laser)
_____________________________________________
Modem (internal, external, speed)
_____________________________________________
Can you set up a fax or voice mail on the modem?
_____________________________________________
Is there a toll-free technical support phone number?
_____________________________________________
What cables are needed to set up the system?
_____________________________________________
Are there any additional accessories that might be useful, e.g., storage cases, furniture, extra cabling, anti-glare screen for monitor?
________________________
Author's Bio
Rick Sheridan is a PhD student who has developed a free online health course for senior citizens. This distance education course teaches seniors how to use the Internet for their health and medical research. See the course at: http://ComputerAccessible.com
Buying a computer is a major purchase and you should study the options carefully. The two main types of computer operating systems are the PC (Windows) and Macintosh. Since PC's dominate about 90% of the market, this report will focus on them, although many of the tips will also apply to the Macintosh computers.
Factors to Consider:
Buy from a Reputable Dealer- before you buy your next computer, check the warranty. One year is average, three is better. Will the technician come to you or do you have to bring the machine in? What is the average turn around time for their repairs? If you are expected to deal with telephone technical support, test the number to see if you get constant busy signals. Check out Consumer Reports and other publications dedicated to evaluating warranties and computer quality. I would generally recommend buying locally if the price is anywhere near what you can get via mail order. Also, an extended warranty is usually worth it.
How will you use the computer- Knowing how you'll use your computer will help you determine what type of minimum requirements the computer needs to have. For example, computers that run graphic design programs generally need more memory (RAM) than computers used for simple word processing operations. The size of the software you plan to run will dictate how much memory your computer should have. Be sure to check the inventory of what's on the computer, so you'll know what you're getting. Salesmen will often try to make you feel as if you need the maximum memory offered (at a higher price). Often you don's need all that power for common operations.
How Much Should You Spend- Depending on your needs, be prepared to spend between $500 for an entry-level computer to $3,000 for a high-end computer. Take into consideration whether the monitor is included or costs extra. Sometimes printers, scanners and software are included in the deal. Be sure to purchase a surge protector, a software backup system (CD burner or Zip drive), along with anti-virus and a troubleshooting program (such as Norton Utilities).
Computer Terminology Glossary
Here are some basic computer terms that will help you understand what the salesman is talking about:
CD-ROM Drive: Most new computers come with a CD-ROM drive as standard equipment. CD's store lots of data and are the normal way to install new programs.
CPU: The CPU, or central processing unit, is the brains of the computer and performs many of the operations. Most Windows-based programs use a Pentium processor.
Disk Drive: Virtually all computers come with a disk drive that can read and save information on portable diskettes, also called floppy disks. You can use floppy disks to save information or to load new software onto your computer.
Hard Drive: The hard drive also is called the hard disk. You'll probably never see it because it is nestled inside your computer. It's the computer's electronic filling cabinet, and it stores the computer's operating system, files, programs and documents.
Keyboard: Just like a typewriter keyboard, this device is the way of inputting data into the software that you will be operating.
Megahertz (MHz): This is the clock speed of the microprocessor. The higher the number, the quicker the information is processed. MHz relates to how many millions of instructions can be processed per second.
Memory: This is the circuitry or device that holds information in an electrical or magnetic form. There is read-only memory (ROM), which is information primarily stored on a disk, and random-access memory (RAM), which is chip-based storage inside the computer. Memory is typically measured in megabytes (MBs).
Modem: This mechanism connects a computer to a phone line so information can be sent from one computer to another or the user can access an on-line service or the Internet. In view of the popularity of the Internet, a modem is now considered basic equipment and comes on practically all new computers. Most modems come with fax capabilities, too. Faster Internet speeds are available with DSL or cable connections.
Monitor: An output device that allows you to see what you are doing. Older computers came with 14 or 15 inch monitors. Many new computers have 17 or 21 inch monitors, but they often cost extra.
Motherboard: The motherboard is the circuit board that everything in the computer plugs into. The CPU, RAM and cache all plug into the motherboard.
Mouse: The mouse is another input device that makes getting around in your computer easier. It is a handheld object that is good for doing tasks such as moving and pointing to objects on the screen, and can replace the function and control keys of the keyboard.
Printer: A printer is an essential part of the computer if you want a hard copy of your work. There are three main types of printers on the market: inkjet, bubble jet and laser. Most inkjets and bubble jets can print color and graphics, and a laser printer offers the best resolution at the highest speed (and price).
RAM: Computers save data in two ways: on the hard drive (permanently) and in random access memory (temporarily while the software is running). New computer buyers should look for models with at least 128 MBs of RAM (or more, depending on what types of programs you'll be running). Make sure that the computer can be upgraded.
Scanner: This device can input written documents, pictures or photographs directly into your computer. There are three types of scanners: handheld, hopper-feed and flatbed.
Sound Card: This device allows your computer to reproduce music, sounds and recorded voices. Make sure you have a sound card if you're planning to play multimedia games.
Video Card: The video card is the part of the computer that sends the images to the monitor.
Computer Buyer's Checklist-
Before you walk into a computer store or call a mail order source, go over the list of the items (hardware and software) that you might consider purchasing. Ask the salesperson questions about the computer you are interested in and jot down your notes.
Processor type
_____________________________________________
Processor Speed in MHz
_____________________________________________
RAM (memory)
_____________________________________________
Cache
_____________________________________________
Hard Drive Capacity
_____________________________________________
Sound & Video Card
_____________________________________________
Monitor Size? Is it included in the price?
_____________________________________________
Printer: Is it included in the price?
_____________________________________________
Type of Printer (inkjet, bubble jet, laser)
_____________________________________________
Modem (internal, external, speed)
_____________________________________________
Can you set up a fax or voice mail on the modem?
_____________________________________________
Is there a toll-free technical support phone number?
_____________________________________________
What cables are needed to set up the system?
_____________________________________________
Are there any additional accessories that might be useful, e.g., storage cases, furniture, extra cabling, anti-glare screen for monitor?
________________________
Jun 3, 2008
How to Import Windows Registry Files
Windows Registry settings can be imported from a previously exported file. This procedure describes the import function in regedit, the Windows Registry Editor, in Windows 95 and Windows 98.
Step1
Step2
Step3
Step4
Step5
Step6
Click OK to import the registry file.
Jun 2, 2008
Quicklaunch your USB workspace
I got this article from www.lifehacker.com and it's really amazing, that's why I'm posting it right here in my blog. You may also visit the link below to read more related topics.
http://lifehacker.com/software/portable-applications/hack-attack-quicklaunch-your-usb-workspace-182792.php
The proliferation of portable applications makes it more and more convenient to carry your life on a thumb drive, especially if you don't do all of your work and play from one computer.
But it could be easier. Rather than plugging in your thumb drive and clicking through your drive's file system to open every program and document, wouldn't it be nice if your workspace launched automatically? Today we'll set up your thumb to Autoplay, so that you can instantly launch your preferred workspace on any computer. All you have to do is plug in.
First of all, there are a crapload of programs that you can run off your thumb drive. I'll be using a few programs just to give you an idea of how this works, but your imagination is the limit when it comes to what you can run off the thumb drive. For a rundown of several different options, check out Gina's life on a thumb drive feature.
Setting up Autoplay
The key to this whole thing is a Windows "feature" called Autoplay. Although it's caused a bit of controversy in its time, Autoplay remains enabled on most Windows computers. Don't worry - in this case we're going to be using Autoplay purely for good.
Setting up Autoplay is a no-brainer. Create a new text file on the home directory of your thumb drive and name it autorun.inf. There are a number of different ways to deal with autorun.inf, but to keep things simple, I'm just going to use it to run a batch file that will set up our workspace (batch files are easy, and we've used batch scripts several times before, so they should be pretty familiar).
Copy and paste the following text into your autorun.inf text file:
[autorun]
open=launch.bat
ACTION = Launch portable workspaceThat's really all there is to it. Next time you plug in your thumb drive, Autoplay should give you the option to "Launch portable applications." Now all that's left to do is create our launch.bat batch file, which will tell us exactly what we want to run when we plug in our thumb drive.
Setting up launch.bat
In the same directory as your autorun.inf file, create a new text file and name it launch.bat. From this point on, we're pretty much dealing with quick launch workspaces, though we're looking for ideas that will work well on a portable drive. For example, you could set up your thumb drive to automatically launch:
- Tiddlywiki:
If you use Tiddlywiki (and I know a lot of Lifehacker readers love it), you could easily launch it with the following batch script:
start tiddlywiki\tiddlywiki.htmlKeep in mind that you never want to use the drive name when you're setting up your batch script, as this is likely to change depending on what computer you're plugged into. Instead, just omit the drive letter altogether and start with the folder or file name that you want to open.
- Portable applications:
Pretty simple, huh? Of course, if you wanted to open Tiddlywiki in your own portable browser, like Portable Firefox, you'd want to tweak this a little bit. Here's what I'd change it to (omitting line breaks):
start portableapps\portablefirefox.exe tiddlywiki\tiddlywiki.html
Easy peasy. Now you can automatically run Tiddlywiki on Portable Firefox as soon as you plug in your thumb drive. The same structure will work for pretty much any portable app you run on your computer. If you want to launch more than one application when you plug in your thumb drive, it's just as easy; just add a couple more lines to your launch.bat script. For example:
start portableapps\portablefirefox.exe tiddlywiki\tiddlywiki.html
start portableapps\portablethunderbird.exe
start portableapps\portableopenoffice.exe
start portableapps\pstart.exewill open Tiddlywiki in Portable Firefox, along with Portable Thunderbird, Open Office, and Filezilla. When it comes to organizing and launching apps from your thumb drive after you're all plugged in, PStart is a good start menu for the thumb drive. My favorite application launcher, Launchy, would be even better for launching apps directly off your thumb drive, but it's not quite ready for that yet (it was really very close).
- App launchers:
You can still make use of other app launchers, though. If you're not into bringing portable applications with you, but you still don't feel like digging through the Start menu of the computer you're plugged into, it can be very nice to have an app launcher by your side.
Both Colibri and SlickRun can handle this, as it's just a matter of installing the programs to your thumb drive (Colibri even has an install setting specifically for portable use).
Again, you can launch pretty much whatever program or file you've got on your thumb drive at this point - it's really just a matter of what you fits your needs. For more ideas, check out my quick launch workspaces. If you still don't understand the worth of portable applications or drives, check out Gina's life on a thumb drive. Once you get your Autoplaying thumb drive tweaked to your liking, who knows - maybe you'll be ditching your laptop for a thumb drive in the near future. God knows thumb drives are a lot easier on the wallet.
Assign a custom icon to your USB flashdrive
Simply find an .ico file you want to use (favicons from websites work nicely).... name your .ico file autorun.ico and put it in the root of your drive then create a text file called autorun.inf in the root of the drive and put this inside it:
[autorun]
icon=autorun.ico
Apr 14, 2008
PC Hardware Troubleshooting Tips
I got this article of Bob O'Donell from www.everythingcomputers.com. This is such a great article.
PC Hardware Troubleshooting Tips
By Bob O'Donnell
Though they tend to cause some of the nastiest symptoms—computers that won't boot, scary and/or confusing error messages, etc.—computer hardware problems are usually the easiest type of problems to solve. The trick, as with all troubleshooting ventures, is to figure out where to start and then focus your efforts.
First, of course, you need to check the stupid stuff. You'd probably be amazed how many "problems" are solved by connecting the cables, or turning on the power switch that you swear you just did. Beyond that, double-check the snugness of your connections—jiggling in a new add-in card or screwing in a cable connection can (and often does) make a difference. You may even want to check the integrity of your cables and connectors. I once solved a baffling SCSI problem by noticing that one of the pins in a miniature 50-pin SCSI-II connector was bent. I had mistakenly presumed, prior to that, that a bent pin would have prevented me from making a connection at all, but it didn't. Unfortunately, as a result, I wasted several hours on something that could've taken two minutes.
Finally, whenever you install something new, whether it's more memory, a new drive, a plug-in card or what-have-you, and something doesn't work, it's more than likely because you made a mistake somewhere in the installation process. Step back through the process again, double- and triple-check your connections, and then try one more time. In the case of RAM that doesn't work or isn't recognized, it could be an incompatibility with the specific manufacturer of the RAM and your motherboard, so see if you can try a different brand before you give up hope. Finally, in some instances installing something new causes a conflict with something else--which is what the rest of this article is all about.
Driver Dilemmas
Once you're past the basics, it’s on to step two. As long as your computer boots, then there's a good chance the problem is related to missing, damaged, incompatible or improperly installed driver software, otherwise known simply as drivers. (If your PC doesn't start up, you may want to create a boot floppy disk—see "How to Create a 'Real' Windows 95 (or 98 or ME) Boot Disk" for more. In addition, you should check out the "PC Startup Troubleshooting Tips" article for more.)
Virtually every piece of hardware located inside or connected externally to your PC requires a driver to communicate and function with the operating system, applications, and other hardware components in your machine. Drivers essentially translate messages back and forth between the hardware in question and the operating system, thereby allowing your computer system to work as a unified whole (at least, in theory). The truth is, though appearances may suggest otherwise, any computer system is actually made up of a bunch of specialized pieces that don't speak the "native language" of other components and, therefore, require a great deal of translation to communicate and work effectively with them. When any of these various levels of translation break down, well, that's when you get problems.
The Device Manager is Your Friend
If you're running Windows 95, 98, or ME, your first stop after the computer finishes the startup process should be the Device Manager, a piece of operating system software that helps you manage the various pieces of your PC. You can get to the Device Manager in several different ways: the two easiest are right-clicking on the My Computer icon on your desktop and selecting Properties from the context menu that pops up when you do this, or by going to the Start menu, going up to Settings, selecting Control Panel from the list of choices and then double-clicking on the System control panel. Either way, you’ll be presented with a tabbed dialog box; click on the tab that says Device Manager, and you’re there.
The first thing to look for is a yellow exclamation point or red international no sign (you know, the circle with the slash through it) next to one of your devices. You may need to click on all the little plus signs next to each category of devices to see the full outline-like list of everything in your computer. If you see the yellow or red symbol, you know something is amiss. My first suggestion is to highlight the offending device and click on the Remove button. What this does is essentially erase the driver software associated with the device as well as references to it within the Windows 95/98/ME Registry. (The Registry tracks all the hardware and software you install, the preferences you set for each, as well as lots of other stuff). The fancy term for this is "logically" removing the device because, even though it may still be physically attached, the computer no longer has any record of its presence.
Next, you should restart your computer, let Windows' Plug-and-Play feature "find" the device again, and redo the driver installation process by either using the driver suggestions that Windows finds and makes or clicking on the Have Disk button and using the installer disks that came with the device. (If both options are possible, I’d go with the disks that came with the hardware—unless you’re sure they are an older version.) If the computer doesn’t find the device, then I would suspect the connections or the device itself. Buy another cable, unplug and re-plug the connectors, remove and then physically reinstall any new plug-in cards or do whatever you have to to ensure that the connection is solid. Once you’ve done that, you’ll find that many times, simply reinstalling the drivers solves the problem.
Other times the problem is due to an older version of a driver conflicting with something else on your system. It’s always a good idea to check for and get the latest versions of drivers that your PC needs. Check the manufacturer’s web site first and if you can’t find the driver, or drivers, there (or if the company is no longer in business), try searching for it at one of the web’s driver repositories, such as The Driver Zone, WinDrivers.Com, WinFiles, or Frank Condron's World o' Windows. If you're running Windows 98 or Windows ME, you may also be able to get a new driver for your hardware via the Windows Update feature off the Start menu.
If you find and download a new driver version, you can often update the driver by clicking on the device listing in the Device Manager, clicking on Properties, selecting the Driver Tab and then clicking on the Update Driver button. From there, depending on what version of Windows you’re using (the original Win95A, the revised Win95B, Win98, or Windows ME), you’ll either need to manually find where the file is located on your hard disk, and then select it, or the computer will attempt to find it for you. Either way, once the correct file is found, you initiate the update process by simply clicking a button.
Some driver updates force you to create new floppy disks, which you then use to update the driver. Frankly, though it’s more work initially, this is a good solution in the long run, I think, because if you ever have to completely reinstall Windows (such as, when you buy yourself a big new hard drive), you’ll generally want to have copies of your drivers on floppies anyway.
Mind your Ps and IRQs
Finally, if that still doesn’t work, you may need to futz with the dreaded IRQs, or Interrupt Requests. Most hardware devices on your computer need attention from the processor on a fairly regular basis (to check their status) and the mechanism for doing that is called Interrupt Requests (because the device politely asks the processor to interrupt what it’s doing at the time and give it some attention—well, sort of). Because of the need to maintain compatibility with older hardware, today’s PCs are still limited to 16 IRQs (numbered 0-15), which is turning out to be a fairly big problem on many newer, well-equipped computers (read one of my InfoWorld Electric "Plugged In" columns to learn more on the subject).
The general principle with IRQ troubleshooting is that two devices cannot typically share an IRQ (an important exception is with some PCI-based add-in cards), and if they try to, one or sometimes neither of the devices will work properly. If you find that you have an IRQ conflict, where two ISA cards or other non-PCI devices are trying to use the same IRQ, you’ll need to change the settings on one of the devices to an open IRQ. The problem is, not every device is able to use every IRQ, so even though you have other IRQs available, the problem device may be incapable of using one of the open IRQs. If that’s the case, you may need to move another device using one of the IRQs that the problem hardware does work with first, and then free up an IRQ for the problem hardware. So, for example, if IRQ 8 is open but you have a SCSI card that only works with IRQs 9 or 11, you may first need to move whatever’s on 11 to 8, and then set the SCSI card to IRQ 11. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to an infuriating puzzle game where you try to match devices with your IRQs.
To find out what IRQs are in use by your computer, double click the computer icon at the top of the Device Manager. You’ll see a new window pop up that shows which devices are using which IRQs. Unfortunately it doesn’t leave a blank for any IRQs that are not in use, so if you need to find an available IRQ you’ll have to look close, count the numbers and see if any are missing. If a number between 0 and 15 is missing, that means that particular IRQ is available.
Some older plug-in cards require you to change the IRQs by setting tiny DIP switches on the card itself, or via a dedicated configuration utility. Most newer Plug-and-Play cards can be changed via Windows 95 or Windows 98. To do so, go to the Device Manager, highlight the product in question, click on the Properties button and then go to Resources Tab. Generally, you’ll have to deselect the Use Automatic Settings button to make any changes. Most devices offer several Basic Configuration choices, which is what you should try first. These are different combinations of IRQs, memory ranges, and I/O ranges. All you typically need to worry about is the IRQ. Some devices also let you adjust these parameters individually by clicking the Change Settings button.
Thankfully, you rarely have to worry about IRQ problems if you’re using Windows 95, 98 or ME because they all do a pretty good job of automatically fixing them before they arise. In fact, this is one of their most important, yet little discussed improvements over Windows 3.1. Unfortunately, Windows 3.0 and 3.1 users still have to worry about this kind of stuff on a semi-regular basis. The problem is not unheard of under Windows 95, 98 or ME, however (I ran into it myself), which is why I’ve included it here.
The End
These tips won’t solve all the hardware problems you may run into, but they should solve a good number of them. The important thing to remember when doing any troubleshooting is that computers really are logical devices and there’s always a logical reason for why something isn’t working. Discovering what that reason is and then applying the right solution isn’t always easy (or intuitive), but if you think about the problem logically and work through it step-by-step, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to solve it on your own. And, if worse comes to worse, you can always just nuke everything and start over (see "Starting Over: Repartitioning, Reformatting and Reinstalling" for more on exactly how to do that). Good luck!
©1998-2000 O'Donnell Enterprises
Reproduction in any form is prohibited without permission. However, feel free to create links to this, or any other page on the site.
If you enjoyed this article, you'll really like my book, "Personal Computer Secrets."
PC Hardware Troubleshooting Tips
By Bob O'Donnell
Though they tend to cause some of the nastiest symptoms—computers that won't boot, scary and/or confusing error messages, etc.—computer hardware problems are usually the easiest type of problems to solve. The trick, as with all troubleshooting ventures, is to figure out where to start and then focus your efforts.
First, of course, you need to check the stupid stuff. You'd probably be amazed how many "problems" are solved by connecting the cables, or turning on the power switch that you swear you just did. Beyond that, double-check the snugness of your connections—jiggling in a new add-in card or screwing in a cable connection can (and often does) make a difference. You may even want to check the integrity of your cables and connectors. I once solved a baffling SCSI problem by noticing that one of the pins in a miniature 50-pin SCSI-II connector was bent. I had mistakenly presumed, prior to that, that a bent pin would have prevented me from making a connection at all, but it didn't. Unfortunately, as a result, I wasted several hours on something that could've taken two minutes.
Finally, whenever you install something new, whether it's more memory, a new drive, a plug-in card or what-have-you, and something doesn't work, it's more than likely because you made a mistake somewhere in the installation process. Step back through the process again, double- and triple-check your connections, and then try one more time. In the case of RAM that doesn't work or isn't recognized, it could be an incompatibility with the specific manufacturer of the RAM and your motherboard, so see if you can try a different brand before you give up hope. Finally, in some instances installing something new causes a conflict with something else--which is what the rest of this article is all about.
Driver Dilemmas
Once you're past the basics, it’s on to step two. As long as your computer boots, then there's a good chance the problem is related to missing, damaged, incompatible or improperly installed driver software, otherwise known simply as drivers. (If your PC doesn't start up, you may want to create a boot floppy disk—see "How to Create a 'Real' Windows 95 (or 98 or ME) Boot Disk" for more. In addition, you should check out the "PC Startup Troubleshooting Tips" article for more.)
Virtually every piece of hardware located inside or connected externally to your PC requires a driver to communicate and function with the operating system, applications, and other hardware components in your machine. Drivers essentially translate messages back and forth between the hardware in question and the operating system, thereby allowing your computer system to work as a unified whole (at least, in theory). The truth is, though appearances may suggest otherwise, any computer system is actually made up of a bunch of specialized pieces that don't speak the "native language" of other components and, therefore, require a great deal of translation to communicate and work effectively with them. When any of these various levels of translation break down, well, that's when you get problems.
The Device Manager is Your Friend
If you're running Windows 95, 98, or ME, your first stop after the computer finishes the startup process should be the Device Manager, a piece of operating system software that helps you manage the various pieces of your PC. You can get to the Device Manager in several different ways: the two easiest are right-clicking on the My Computer icon on your desktop and selecting Properties from the context menu that pops up when you do this, or by going to the Start menu, going up to Settings, selecting Control Panel from the list of choices and then double-clicking on the System control panel. Either way, you’ll be presented with a tabbed dialog box; click on the tab that says Device Manager, and you’re there.
The first thing to look for is a yellow exclamation point or red international no sign (you know, the circle with the slash through it) next to one of your devices. You may need to click on all the little plus signs next to each category of devices to see the full outline-like list of everything in your computer. If you see the yellow or red symbol, you know something is amiss. My first suggestion is to highlight the offending device and click on the Remove button. What this does is essentially erase the driver software associated with the device as well as references to it within the Windows 95/98/ME Registry. (The Registry tracks all the hardware and software you install, the preferences you set for each, as well as lots of other stuff). The fancy term for this is "logically" removing the device because, even though it may still be physically attached, the computer no longer has any record of its presence.
Next, you should restart your computer, let Windows' Plug-and-Play feature "find" the device again, and redo the driver installation process by either using the driver suggestions that Windows finds and makes or clicking on the Have Disk button and using the installer disks that came with the device. (If both options are possible, I’d go with the disks that came with the hardware—unless you’re sure they are an older version.) If the computer doesn’t find the device, then I would suspect the connections or the device itself. Buy another cable, unplug and re-plug the connectors, remove and then physically reinstall any new plug-in cards or do whatever you have to to ensure that the connection is solid. Once you’ve done that, you’ll find that many times, simply reinstalling the drivers solves the problem.
Other times the problem is due to an older version of a driver conflicting with something else on your system. It’s always a good idea to check for and get the latest versions of drivers that your PC needs. Check the manufacturer’s web site first and if you can’t find the driver, or drivers, there (or if the company is no longer in business), try searching for it at one of the web’s driver repositories, such as The Driver Zone, WinDrivers.Com, WinFiles, or Frank Condron's World o' Windows. If you're running Windows 98 or Windows ME, you may also be able to get a new driver for your hardware via the Windows Update feature off the Start menu.
If you find and download a new driver version, you can often update the driver by clicking on the device listing in the Device Manager, clicking on Properties, selecting the Driver Tab and then clicking on the Update Driver button. From there, depending on what version of Windows you’re using (the original Win95A, the revised Win95B, Win98, or Windows ME), you’ll either need to manually find where the file is located on your hard disk, and then select it, or the computer will attempt to find it for you. Either way, once the correct file is found, you initiate the update process by simply clicking a button.
Some driver updates force you to create new floppy disks, which you then use to update the driver. Frankly, though it’s more work initially, this is a good solution in the long run, I think, because if you ever have to completely reinstall Windows (such as, when you buy yourself a big new hard drive), you’ll generally want to have copies of your drivers on floppies anyway.
Mind your Ps and IRQs
Finally, if that still doesn’t work, you may need to futz with the dreaded IRQs, or Interrupt Requests. Most hardware devices on your computer need attention from the processor on a fairly regular basis (to check their status) and the mechanism for doing that is called Interrupt Requests (because the device politely asks the processor to interrupt what it’s doing at the time and give it some attention—well, sort of). Because of the need to maintain compatibility with older hardware, today’s PCs are still limited to 16 IRQs (numbered 0-15), which is turning out to be a fairly big problem on many newer, well-equipped computers (read one of my InfoWorld Electric "Plugged In" columns to learn more on the subject).
The general principle with IRQ troubleshooting is that two devices cannot typically share an IRQ (an important exception is with some PCI-based add-in cards), and if they try to, one or sometimes neither of the devices will work properly. If you find that you have an IRQ conflict, where two ISA cards or other non-PCI devices are trying to use the same IRQ, you’ll need to change the settings on one of the devices to an open IRQ. The problem is, not every device is able to use every IRQ, so even though you have other IRQs available, the problem device may be incapable of using one of the open IRQs. If that’s the case, you may need to move another device using one of the IRQs that the problem hardware does work with first, and then free up an IRQ for the problem hardware. So, for example, if IRQ 8 is open but you have a SCSI card that only works with IRQs 9 or 11, you may first need to move whatever’s on 11 to 8, and then set the SCSI card to IRQ 11. Unfortunately, this can sometimes lead to an infuriating puzzle game where you try to match devices with your IRQs.
To find out what IRQs are in use by your computer, double click the computer icon at the top of the Device Manager. You’ll see a new window pop up that shows which devices are using which IRQs. Unfortunately it doesn’t leave a blank for any IRQs that are not in use, so if you need to find an available IRQ you’ll have to look close, count the numbers and see if any are missing. If a number between 0 and 15 is missing, that means that particular IRQ is available.
Some older plug-in cards require you to change the IRQs by setting tiny DIP switches on the card itself, or via a dedicated configuration utility. Most newer Plug-and-Play cards can be changed via Windows 95 or Windows 98. To do so, go to the Device Manager, highlight the product in question, click on the Properties button and then go to Resources Tab. Generally, you’ll have to deselect the Use Automatic Settings button to make any changes. Most devices offer several Basic Configuration choices, which is what you should try first. These are different combinations of IRQs, memory ranges, and I/O ranges. All you typically need to worry about is the IRQ. Some devices also let you adjust these parameters individually by clicking the Change Settings button.
Thankfully, you rarely have to worry about IRQ problems if you’re using Windows 95, 98 or ME because they all do a pretty good job of automatically fixing them before they arise. In fact, this is one of their most important, yet little discussed improvements over Windows 3.1. Unfortunately, Windows 3.0 and 3.1 users still have to worry about this kind of stuff on a semi-regular basis. The problem is not unheard of under Windows 95, 98 or ME, however (I ran into it myself), which is why I’ve included it here.
The End
These tips won’t solve all the hardware problems you may run into, but they should solve a good number of them. The important thing to remember when doing any troubleshooting is that computers really are logical devices and there’s always a logical reason for why something isn’t working. Discovering what that reason is and then applying the right solution isn’t always easy (or intuitive), but if you think about the problem logically and work through it step-by-step, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to solve it on your own. And, if worse comes to worse, you can always just nuke everything and start over (see "Starting Over: Repartitioning, Reformatting and Reinstalling" for more on exactly how to do that). Good luck!
©1998-2000 O'Donnell Enterprises
Reproduction in any form is prohibited without permission. However, feel free to create links to this, or any other page on the site.
If you enjoyed this article, you'll really like my book, "Personal Computer Secrets."
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)